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Pop-Up Restaurant Lets Diners Pick Portion Sizes

Pop-Up Restaurant Lets Diners Pick Portion Sizes



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Dishes are available in small, medium, and large

It can be tough to guess portion sizes when eating out. Is that pizza going to be small plate or a passable wagon wheel? Size Matters, a new pop-up restaurant concept in London's Soho is trying to tackle that problem with an experiment where customers pick their own portion sizes, which they say gives diners more control over their calorie intake and cuts down on food waste.

"The idea is to give the guest greater control over their portion size," a spokesperson said to The Daily Mail. "You hear a lot over the internet about portion sizes and how difficult it is for restaurants to get it right, so we thought it would be a good idea to put that choice into the guest's hands."

The temporary restaurant is a spin-off of Criterion Restaurant in Piccadilly Circus that will be open until June 4.

The menu, developed by Criterion chef Matthew Foxon, is made up of classic British pub food like beef burgers and fish and chips. The starters, main courses, and desserts are all available in small, medium, and large sizes.
The small burger, for example, is a bite-size mini burger for £8. The medium is a £11 double cheeseburger. The large is a £15.50, three-patty monstrosity that oozes cheese. It looks awesome.

The small sizes are bite-sized small plates intended as a light snack because they likely wouldn't satisfy as a full meal. The large sizes are gargantuan, but meant to be shared.

"The large sizes are mainly chosen when there is a large group and they share everything around - the dishes work really well for sharing," the restaurant explained.

As a bonus, the restaurant said the experiment has been cutting back on food waste because people can order just as much as they are able to finish.


Next Up at NoHi: Akron coffee entrepreneur shares her love of traditional Ethiopian food

Her Akron-based business Bereka Coffee has been around since 2016.

She's been roasting and selling coffee and keeping the tradition of the Coffee Ceremony alive that she learned as a young girl while being raised in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.

Aside from honing her coffee skills and growing a business, Street also has been exploring and reconnecting with Ethiopian dishes.

She's been entertaining friends and family for years by serving coffee (of course) and working to perfect these traditional recipes from her childhood.

"I grew up helping my mom preparing meals for our family," she said. "Living in a close family circle, I watched my mom and my grandmothers providing warm delicious Ethiopian dishes from scratch every day."

Street said she grew up appreciating the value of a good home-cooked meal &mdashsomething that she tries to keep alive since moving to Akron.

"I love how homemade food provides comfort to families," she said. "Our traditional meals are used to strengthen a sense of community and fellowship. I remember friends in the neighborhood bringing food to us when we lost a family member, when someone had a newborn, or at times of sickness."

This tradition of giving and sharing love through food is an an important one to Street.

So it should come as no surprise that when she started her coffee business she called it Bereka, which means blessing in Amharic, the native language of Ethiopia.

She is also using the moniker for her Bereka Kitchen concept that will take over the kitchen this weekend at the No-Hi Pop-up restaurant in Akron's North Hill neighborhood.

"During a time of celebration, food was something everyone in the neighborhood had to work on together," she said. "Weddings are known for this type of group cooking. Every mother of each household in the neighborhood brings her best recipe and takes part in the wedding feast prep."

The preparation of the wedding feast was not a simple task.

"The women would sing to the bride and groom-to-be while cooking for a few days even weeks at a time," Street said. "As I became an adult, I had to take part in these types of community feast preparations and most certainly enjoyed my fair portion of the meals as well."

She missed some of these traditions when she moved to the United States.

But for the last 20 years, Street said, she has been working to recreate many of these dishes on her own &mdash not a simple task.

"I don&rsquot use measurements or have a written recipe," she said. "I just add and mix while thinking of my guest and how to make them feel special though my dishes."

The menu at this weekend's Bereka Kitchen includes a number of traditional Ethiopian dishes from Yesiga Tibs (beef tibs with brown rice) to Dorowet and Atikit (chicken stew and cabbage) to Yesum Beyayinetu (a vegan platter). The dinners come with a salad, a kinche and two rolls of injera.

The dessert offering is samosa with crimson lentil and green pepper filing.

The North Hill Development Corp. took over the former Mexico City Restaurant &mdash before that the Office City Tavern &mdash at 778 N. Main St. &mdash to let chefs explore new concepts and perhaps open their own place someday.

The Bereka Kitchen will be open for business from noon to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 1-6 p.m. Sunday, with all dishes to-go only amid the pandemic.

To order, call 234-231-1645 or visit www.northakroncdc.org/nohi as early as Wednesday.

Street said she is hoping to inspire "cultural authenticity and provide enlightening experiences" to others.

"I want to give people the opportunity to experience the food, coffee, history, and my culture. But most of all I want them to have a reason to come together learning about each other, appreciating their differences and uniqueness," she said. "I believe we all have a unique, beautiful and important story to tell."


Kitchen Slang 101: How to Talk Like a Real-Life Line Cook

Oh man, we had over 90 covers, two 12-tops, a bunch of four-tops, tons of VIPs. By nine, we were really cruising, totally slammed, had already 86’d striper and tatin. I was running the pass when this huge pick-up was happening, we were doing that really soigne risotto with chanterelles—a la minute you know? The pick-up time is like 20 minutes. I got this really green cook on sauté, fired her a 4 by 4 by 3, half a dozen more on order, but when we go to plate she’s short two fucking orders, so had to order fire two more on the fly, she was totally in the shit! We were so weeded! Food’s dying on the pass. The rail is jammed up with dupes. The salamander stopped working. My porter no-showed. I really thought we might go down.

If you’ve never worked in a restaurant, this paragraph might as well be written in Sanskrit. Like all occupations, the professional kitchen has developed its own vernacular—one that is at once clever, efficient, and sometimes a little crude. Kitchen slang strengthens workplace solidarity, confuses the uninitiated, and is often peppered with a shocking amount of expletives. Each kitchen will have its own unique patois, but many terms are widespread in the industry. Here’s a guide to common kitchen jargon.

ON THE LINE

The “line” is the kitchen space where the cooking is done, often set up in a horizontal line. Being “on the line” means you are a “line cook”—an essential foot soldier in any functioning restaurant.

RUNNING THE PASS

The “pass” is the long, flat surface where dishes are plated and picked up by wait staff. The chef or high-level cook who “runs the pass” each night is in charge of letting the cooks know what they will be cooking as orders come in. They are in control of the watching the order tickets, monitoring the speed and rhythm of the coursing, and making sure each dish looks good before it goes out to the customer.

5 OUT

Coordination is essential for any busy kitchen where there are multiple cooks in charge of different dishes, components, and garnishes for every plate. When a cook yells “5 out” or “3 out on sirloin,” it signals to the other cooks that they will be ready to plate in said amount of time.

SOIGNE

Mostly used by wannabe fine-dining douchebags, soigne (pronounced “SWAN-YAY”) means “elegant” in French. It’s used to describe an exceptionally sexy dish, or when you really nailed a plating presentation.

A LA MINUTE

A la minute is French for “in the minute,” and it refers to making a dish right then, from scratch. Instead of making a big batch of risotto during prep time and reheating portions of it hours later, a dish made “a la minute” is cooked from start to finish only when an order for it comes in.

Short for mise en place (French for “everything in its place”), this term refers to all of the prepped items and ingredients a cook will need for his specific station, for one night of service. E.g., Chef: “Did you get all of your mise done?” Cook: “I just need to slice shallots for the vin(aigrette), chef, then I’m ready.”

12-TOP/4-TOP/DEUCE

A “12 Top” refers to a table with 12 diners. A “4 top” has four diners. A “duece” just two.

NO SHOW

A “no-show” is a kitchen employee who doesn’t show up to work. No-shows are undeniable assholes.

ON DECK/ON ORDER

As tickets shoot out from the kitchen printer, the cook running the pass will let the cooks know what they have “on deck”—for example, “4 steak, 2 quail, 1 blue, on order”—so the cooks can mentally prepare and start setting up what they will be cooking throughout a diner’s meal.

When a chef calls out “fire” or “pick-up,” a cook will start cooking that particular dish (e.g., “FIRE! 6 broco, 3 polenta side, 1 lamb”) “Order fire” means to immediately start cooking a certain dish because there is only one course on the ticket, much to the annoyance of the kitchen (because it forces them to restructure the entire pick-up). “Pick-up” can also be used as a noun, as in “I had to re-do my entire pick-up because some jabroni order-fired a porterhouse.”

RUN THE DISH

When a dish of plated food that is ready to go out to the dining room, cooks will “run the dish.” Servers ask, “Can you run?”, when they are waiting to ferry the food out of the kitchen.

DYING ON THE PASS

Hot food that is ready to be run that has been sitting on the pass for an inordinate amount of time getting cold and losing its soigne character because waitstaff are either too slammed or too lazy to pick it up.

When the kitchen runs out of a dish, it’s “86’d.” Dishes can also be 86’d if the chef is unhappy with the preparation and temporarily wants it off the menu. Patrons can be 86’d, too. One of the earliest documented usages of this term was at the bar Chumley’s in downtown Manhattan during Prohibition. The bar had an entrance on Pamela Court and an exit at 86 Bedford Street. Police would call ahead to warn the bartenders of a possible raid, telling them to “86” their customers out of the 86 exit door.

WEEDED/IN THE SHIT/ IN THE WEEDS

Used when a cook is really fucking busy, overwhelmed by tickets, and frantically trying to cook and plate his dishes.

THE RAIL/THE BOARD

This refers to the metal contraption that holds all of the tickets the kitchen is working on. Once a ticket is printed, it’s stuck to “the rail” or “the board.” “Clearing the board” means the kitchen has just worked through a large set of tickets.

CHECK YOUR PLATES!

Every open kitchen where the cooks can actually see patrons will have a term that signals that an attractive man or woman is in the dining room. It might also be “Ace!” or “Yellowtail!” or whatever the kitchen comes up with.

THE SALAMANDER/ROBOCOP/SIZZLE/COMBI

Kitchen equipment names often get abbreviated or nick-named. A “salamander” is a high-temperature broiler a “robocop” is a food processor a “sizzle” is a flat, metal broiler plate “combi” is an oven with a combination of heating functions “fishspat” is a flat-angled metal spatula good for cooking fish a “spider” is a wire skimmer “chinacap” is a cone-shaped colander “low-boy” is a waist-high refrigerator. There’s a million of them…

VIPS/PPX/NPR

“Very Important Person,” “Persone Txtrodinaire,” and “Nice People Get Rewarded” written on a ticket signals to all staff that their work should be top-notch for these diners. It can be industry, celebrities, friends, or family—they all get hooked up.

CUPCAKING

Mostly for bartenders, “cupcaking” is used when a barkeep is spending noticeably too much time and attention on an attractive patron sitting at the bar.

FLASH

If a piece of protein is slightly undercooked, a cook with “flash it” in the oven for a minute or two to raise the temperature

SANCHO

When a cook sneezes, a co-worker will announce “SANCHO.” This is in the Mexican tradition of pointing out that someone named “SANCHO” or “SANCHA” is in your house banging your wife or boyfriend while you are at work. It’s a funny dig. The proper response is, “ No mames guey! I’m not worried about Sancho.”

SHORT

To be missing a component of a dish or an ingredient, as in, “Dammit, I’m one meatball short!”, or, “Landcaster fucking shorted us again on cream.”

Short for “duplicate.” When tickets are printed in the kitchen, they are usually printed on two- or three-ply color-coded paper which signify courses. This allows the person running the pass to keep track of and discard layers as courses leave the kitchen, as in, “Gimme that dupe, I gotta cross off the apps.”

BUKKAKE

Does your dish have a swipe of yogurt, a squiggle of cream, or a splash of creme fraiche on it? That’s “bukkake.”

⅛ PAN, ⅙ PAN, ⅓ PAN, HOTEL PAN

The standardized, stackable metal pans that cooks use to braise meat, carry vegetables, and roast things in are called “hotel pans,” which can be deep or shallow. There are many pans of different sizes and shapes that relate in volume to the hotel pan: three ⅓ pans can fit into a hotel, six ⅙ pans make up one hotel, eight ⅛ pans, etc.

BEHIND/ATRAS

In the fast-paced ballet of cramped kitchen spaces, cooks let their co-workers know they are moving behind them so there are no unnecessary collisions. When carrying knifes, heavy hotel pans, and pots of burning liquid, the usual call is, “HOT BEHIND!” Atrás is Spanish for “behind.”

CHARPY

A mispronunciation of Sharpie, the permanent markers cooks use to label containers of ingredients for their mise. It comes from our Mexican friends’ thick accents.

LEFT-HANDED SPATULA/BACON STRETCHER/LONG STAND/GRILL EXTENDER

These items do not exist. But tell a green cook to grab a “left-handed spatula” for you and watch the frantic search begin. Hilarious!

GETTING A PUSH

During service, work on the line usually comes in waves. When the tickets start printing faster and the restaurant is getting busier, the kitchen is “getting a push.”

TRAIL/STAGE

A “trail” is the kitchen equivalent to the second-interview. After interviewing with the chef, a cook will come in to “trail,’ to try out the kitchen, so the chef can see how the applicant works under fire. A “stage” is a longer-term trail for a designated period of time—a couple of weeks, or a month or two. It’s meant to be a learning experience for the cook, and free labor for the kitchen.

CROPDUSTING

Cropdusting is farting, intentionally or accidentally, while moving down the line. Also works for wait staff, as in, “Goddamn table 17 is the fucking worst! When I drop their check I’m going to try and cropdust them.”

BURN THE ICE

Disposing of the ice in the ice machine, under your mise, or at the bar by pouring hot water over it.

ALL DAY

This refers to the total amount of dishes a cook is cooking in one specific pick-up. It works as a clarification system between the chef and cook. The cook might say, “Chef, how many linguine am I working?!” or “Can you give me an all-day, Chef.” The chef would reply, “You’ve got 4 linguine, 3 spaghetti, 2 cappelletti, and 2 kids pastas, all day”

WAXING A TABLE

Giving a table VIP treatment.

Scarlett Lindeman spent a decade cooking in kitchens in Salt Lake City, Los Angeles, and New York. She hung up her apron last year to pursue a Ph.D in Sociology.


Share All sharing options for: A Perfect Tahini Recipe From a Pita Pop-Up Chef

Tahini — that slick, beige, vaguely nutty liquid gold — often pops up in sandwiches or pitas, in salad dressings or in a marinade, adding the perfect depth of flavor to transform any dish. And it goes without saying that a giant dollop of tahini should top (or be whipped into) every bowl of hummus.

But spooned out on its own, raw tahini can taste rather bitter, so chef Zoë Komarin of Zoë Food Party — a sold-out pita party in Los Angeles — has suggestions for upping the tahini in your pantry. Below is Komarin’s basic tahini recipe, demonstrated on Instagram Live as part of the Eater @ Home virtual event series. She notes that the proportions can be eyeballed, since each tahini behaves a little differently but the recipe is a great starting point to get comfortable, before you start switching it up with ponzu or adding loads of minced herbs and crushed garlic.

Watch Komarin whip up tahini (and some fun salad and sandwich options as well) and check out her recipe for the perfect tahini below.

1 cup of raw tahini
Juice from one lemon
1 ⁄2 to 1 cup ice water (as needed)
Pinch of salt

Dump your raw tahini into a bowl. (Tip from Komarin: Look for tahini that doesn’t have a noticeable layer of oil on top, as this often signifies old tahini. Har Bracha is a favorite.)

Squeeze lemon juice and mix thoroughly and with gusto the mixture will darken and seize up and resemble wet sand.

Now more than ever, it’s vital to support the restaurant industry. The coronavirus pandemic has devastated the restaurant industry and the workers who power it. To offer your support, Komarin suggests donating to The Street Vendor Emergency Fund and No Us Without You.

Slowly add ice water while you mix. As you reconstitute the tahini will lighten, thin out, and begin to look shiny.

Add salt to taste. (This is also the part where you would add other mix-ins like garlic, cumin, and herbs.)


Events at Lore

Food is a great medium to transport people as one uses all the senses when one eats.

“By manipulating the textures, flavours and smells of food you can get a diner into the desired mind set,” explains Kaushik. "Right from the visual delight of looking at food to the aroma that it gives out to the temperature at which it is served and the texture of the dish -- once all the senses are engaged, the enjoyment of a meal increases immensely."

Lore curates foods that evoke memories like this dish served in a baby's feeding bottle

Lore has already held four pop-ups in Bengaluru, namely, 'Indian Flavours' and 'Circle of Life', besides pop-ups in Goa and Hyderabad.

The first one pop-up was replete with ‘nostalgic flavours’, during which they introduced familiar flavours, in different visual representations. “The guests had to guess what they were eating, and the interesting thing that we noticed was after first 2-3 dishes people started getting better at guessing the name of the dish,” he adds.

Iced apples with Yuzu snow

The other two pop-ups were, “Stories of Glass and Plate” which was an eight-course meal and Virgo and Whisky, which honoured the essence of Virgo, the earth sign, paired with Paul John single malt whisky.

The pop-ups that were held in other cities were, Sol De Goa, in Goa which was centred around the story of Goa through war, love and peace and “Omnisense” in Hyderabad, which was the story of the senses.


The Neptune – new cafe at East Coast

The new cafe at East Coast is a charming cafe with nice ambience, friendly service and good coffee. The Neptune has separate menus for the day and the evening. It offers classic cafe fare as well as Japanese inspired dishes such as scone with yuzu jam and seafood somen. Read more.

Neptune
237 East Coast Road, Singapore 428930

Opening Hours:
Tue – Sat: 9am – 10pm
Sun: 9am – 7pm
Closed on Monday


THIS YEAR’S DINING OUT FOR LIFE LOOKS A LITTLE DIFFERENT

PCAF’s leaders didn’t feel it was appropriate to ask local restaurants – that already are struggling – to contribute a slice of ticket sales, explained Wilmer Galindo, Development Coordinator with PCAF. Participating restaurants in a typical year would donate between 25 and 100 percent of ticket sales for the one-day dining event.

It also wasn’t safe to encourage diners to gather in large groups to celebrate the way a typical DOFL event would happen, so that won’t happen this year, either, explained Jill Rose, Development and Communications Director for PCAF.

PCAF came up with a number of ways for restaurants to participate, as well as safe ways for diners to contribute.

For starters, instead of donating a portion of ticket sales, participating restaurants will donate their recipes to PCAF. The organization will take those recipes and collect them into a cookbook, a project Galindo currently is working on.

Here are details on that cookbook and other ways diners can help PCAF raise funds this year.

COOKBOOK: Donations of $100 or more will bring a rich dividend – that PCAF cookbook composed of recipes from local chefs. The cookbook will be published later this year.

CLASSES: Cooking classes are on the horizon, too. Watch for information about those at PCAF’s website.

MONTH-LONG DINING SUPPORT: PCAF asks that diners grab take-out at participating restaurants for the entire month of April (or safely dine-in while following current pandemic restrictions). This year’s restaurant list is shorter and consists only of restaurants that previously have participated. It didn’t feel right, PCAF organizers said, to recruit new restaurants. Find the list of participating restaurants here: https://www.diningoutforlife.com/city/southsound/#restaurants

INFORMATIONAL CAMPAIGN AND VIRTUAL DONATIONS: “Restaurants will distribute postcards that go into takeout boxes, or be available in the restaurant,” said Rose. Diners can scan the QR codes on those postcards for more information about PCAF and for ways to donate to the cause. Join with me in donating here. Your gift will help support programs offered by PCAF.

RESTAURANT AMBASSADORS: PCAF typically would train ambassadors to greet diners inside restaurants on the annual DOFL event. Instead this year, ambassadors will be virtual advocates who will post restaurant photos and information that can be shared and boosted on social media. See one of those posts? Give it a share and help spread the word.


Shipping Container Coffee Shops & Bars

Custom shipping containers are excellent choices for new coffee shops, food trucks, sandwich shops, seafood restaurants, and hip bars. A recent study conducted by Ohio State University revealed that 60 percent of restaurants fail in their first year of existence and 80 percent fail within five years. As reported by BusinessInsider.com, Robert Irvine, celebrity chef and star of the hit show, “Restaurant Impossible,” lists the following as the top causes of restaurant failures:

  • Inexperience
  • Poorly located
  • Bad People Management
  • Lack of Accounting Skills
  • Spotty Customer Service
  • Sub-Par Food Quality & Execution

While Carrie Luxem, president and CEO of Restaurant HR Group, agrees with many of the things on Irvine’s list, she considers poor location and overspending to be two of the biggest reasons why restaurants fail. Luxem warns that some of the pitfalls of a bad location include poor visibility, insufficient parking and a lack of foot traffic. When it comes to overspending, Luxem says that some restaurateurs spend too much even before they open their doors on remodeling projects that aren’t always necessary.

Overcoming the reasons Irvine cited as being responsible for failure in the restaurant industry can be done with hands-on training and education. You can get experience by working in someone else’s restaurant before you strike out on your own and use it as a guide. For instance, you learn how to prepare food and execute the menu you’re going to offer. You can also learn about the level of service customers expect at the same time, which will help you train your employees to tend to your customers appropriately down the line. You can learn how to manage others by taking a class or consulting with a seasoned mentor. You can also pick the marketing and accounting skills you’ll need to succeed as a business owner by taking a class in a formal setting or online.

Conquering the real obstacles to success that Luxem discussed is also within your control. You can research the features and demographics in a few areas where you’d like to open your restaurant to see which market your establishment will be most likely to succeed in, for example. You can also avoid overspending by identifying what is critical to the success of your project and staying within your budget by not adding unnecessary items to your to-do list.

Sometimes, no matter how much research you do about the demographics and competition in the area and regardless of how careful you are to stick to your budget, your business concepts may still be literally and figuratively positioned to fail. Often, this is due to a change in the neighborhood, a “jinxed” location that once seemed perfect, or something else. You can avoid pitfalls like these, however, by sidestepping a traditional retail location such as a strip mall or shopping center and opening your restaurant as a portable pop-up eatery instead.

One of the biggest advantages that pop up restaurants like shipping container restaurants have over conventional brick-and-mortar commercial locations is that they feature the option of relocating your business if you picked the wrong retail space or the consumer market around your restaurant changes. Another benefit is that a mobile pop-up is normally less expensive to customize the architecture to your exact standards than it is to build a permanent structure.


Steve Livigni, Food & Beverage Partner, Hotel June

Steve Livigni is a Los Angeles based restaurateur with multiple restaurant locations in both Los Angeles and Detroit. Last year, Livigni signed on as Food & Beverage partner at Brian DeLowe and Brad Korzen’s new Proper Hospitality brand, Hotel June, which just opened its doors in Playa Vista, CA. Livigni oversees two restaurant concepts there, Scenic Route and Caravan Swim Club, which pay homage to the many road trips of his childhood between the Central Coast of California and Ensenada, Mexico.

Socially distanced drinks by the pool at Hotel June’s Caravan Swim Club

A Safer Host Station

“The host station is the hub of the restaurant. There needs to be a meeting place between managers, hosts, servers etc., and also a checkpoint for the guests. If the hosts are protected with masks and shields and the guests are respectful and also wear masks then it’s no different than any other allowable human contact.”

Distance Matters

“With the devastating impact COVID has had on the hospitality industry, not all restaurants will be able to afford all these barriers, but the key is to create even more distance between tables and very wide clear paths to the restrooms to add additional piece of mind when strangers are walking past.”

Caravan Swim Club’s patio dining area

Increase the Square Footage

“If we continue on this path with COVID, new restaurants will need to be designed with more space and restaurant lease rates per sq/ft will need to get capped to afford restaurants the ability to dedicate more square footage to non-guest areas in the back of house. Additional ventilation spread across the kitchen will also help, and this is an area where the landlord should ensure adequate HVAC to even market their property for restaurant use.”


The Paris-Catskills Love Affair Continues: Two Recipes From Brushland, in Honor of Its Colette Pop-Up

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When Sohail Zandi and Sara Elbert decamped a few years ago to the western Catskills with their eye on opening their own establishment, they knew instinctively what their new neighbors in the rural hamlet of Bovina (population: 633) craved: a warm and relaxed hangout where farmers and weekenders could raise glasses together over hearty farm-to-table comfort fare. “Here, when it’s the middle of winter, people can be at home for a week without seeing anyone,” Elbert explained recently of the isolation that can set in amongst the rolling hills speckled with hay bales and Holstein and Jersey cows. “We’re one of the few places where they can feel social.” The couple, who are alumni of NYC restaurants such as Prime Meats and Frankie’s, named their restaurant Brushland Eating House, a nod to the taverns and public gathering places of bygone eras.

Three years on, Zandi and Elbert are still doing things just as they did when they started. While they occasionally bring in outside help (as well as guest chefs including Antonio Mora of Quality Meats in Manhattan and Lee Desrosiers of Achilles Heel in Brooklyn), the restaurant remains largely a two-person affair: Sohail dreams up the menu and makes nearly everything himself (including plump hand-rolled pastas and crisp, effervescent pickles), while Sara waits on the small number of tables, bantering with guests and pouring bottle after bottle of earthy and complex local wine and ale. At the end of each night, they retire upstairs, where they live and also run a small rooming house.

This tiny-scale, simple way of doing things has naturally yielded a menu that’s charmingly personal. At Brushland, the couple serve up Americana-inflected plates, with some farther-flung influences from Zandi’s Persian roots. You’ll find items such as Brussels sprouts with fontina and barberries (a tart fruit often paired with rice in Persian cuisine), crisp roast chicken with saffron (Zandi’s mom brings back bags for him when she travels to Iran), house-made sunchoke pickles, and a subtly aromatic olive oil cake.

Brushland’s approach is one that has won over Sarah Andelman, the cofounder and creative director of Colette in Paris, who has become something of a champion for young talents in upstate New York, from designers to musicians and artists. And so from this Wednesday until Saturday, to coincide with Men’s Fashion Week in Paris, Zandi and Elbert will be dishing up their Upstate-by-way-of-Iran-and-NYC cuisine at Colette. On offer will be items such as roasted carrots with a honey-almond dressing (a cult favorite at Brushland), pickled deviled eggs, “Catskills Riviera” Buffalo-chicken sandwiches, and brown-butter blondies. They’ll be joined by Mora, who’s been a mentor to Zandi and who helped devise the menu.